Wednesday, October 27, 2010

Mamagoto, khan market


It is their play with food, flavours and flirting with the palate that worked like magic for me. They have taken ingredients and brought them together in a delightful asian experience. The Mocktails start the meal well and the desserts offer a fitting end, but the hero - as it should be for all good kitchens - is the food.
 The Salads are crunchy with a wonderful sharpness and a full bodied after taste. The snow pea and green bean salad worked wonderfully to whet the appetite and not kill it. The soggy rice was, well soggy, but not at all like baby food. It has texture and a sweet and spicy flavour.
It isnt often that you sit down to eat and from the top to bottom, the kitchen serves up the soup like its meant to. At Mamagoto, I had no complaints. Well...the service is a bit crowded and it would be nice to be encouraged to linger. But the food had the flavour and the heat to seduce my taste buds at a price and ambiance that certainly seduced by wallet. 

Friday, August 27, 2010

Olive, bandra

IMG_0288.JPG
Olive Bar and Kitchen
Rating **1/2

I have always maintained that unlike a film review, a restaurant review is always subject to change. Especially with two aspects. The first obviously being change in the chef. The second shift has a huge effect on your experience is a change in manager/ management. Olive, in the swanky union park neighborhood has seen a revolving door of chefs. And while that is the worst thing for a kitchen, it is better for the management to keep trying out new people than to serve up some soup below par. They may have ended their problems with the Prodigal son Chef Manu Chandra.

The salads itself set the meal in the right mode. Deliciously flavored, fresh and simple. The green apple carpaccio with baby spinach and feta is light and airy, the signature Caesar's salad is also well built and the wine cured grapes with aragula and goat cheese is bold. The seasoning is just right, the staff is polite and open to suggestion. While their pizzas are good and the Tomato Pesto Timbale is interesting and flavorful, the humble char grills are the most popular entrees at Olive. The Portuguese style chicken grill and the mixed seafood are both easy to order. With your coffee you will get delicious chocolate coated orange peel which is a must try.

People watching is always interesting. Young ladies having drinks, Bollywood celebrities enjoying a meal with friends, fashion designers, models and other members of Mumbai's swish set are here. Sit at the bar for a while and then move to a window table for two or the ones against the wall for more. Based on the last two meals the rating might have been higher, but a good kitchen proves itself. And the proof is in the pudding.

Olive Bar and Kitchen
Pali Hill Tourist Hotel, 14 union Park, Khar West, Mumbai 400052
Tel: +91-22-26058228/9
email: olive@2die4.com
Website: www.olivebarandkitchen.com
Rating **1/2


Pricing: $$$
Recommendations: char grills, wine cured grape salad, lasagna
Atmosphere: Contemporary, hip, lounge feel
Service: polite and attentive, receptive
Decibel: Music loud over weekend, drowning off conversation a bit
Price Range: Rs. 3000 for 2 people (not including drinks)
Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
Make reservations
Child friendliness: at lunch time, in the evening, children are not welcome. It is a bar mostly.

Thursday, August 26, 2010

Reflections Bar @ JW Marriott

Reflections, JW Marriott
Rating: **1/2

Points for just being at the JW Marriott. The hotel with the revolving door to some of the most famous faces in Mumbai. In fact if I am not mistaken, a Bollywood character actor recently tweeted about his meeting there implying that the best thing about conducting meetings at the JW is that he bumps into several industry friends. The reason I go on about this, is quite simple, Reflections is the perfect people watching space. And an additional point for utterly efficient and polite waiting and managerial staff. Shah Rukh Khan could be on the next table and I will be handled with as much fuss, interest and dignity as the over achiever on the next table.

Reflections isn't the swishest space at the JW. That would paradoxically be the cafe - BBC. Reflections is quiet. You can have a private meeting, actually have a conversation, and just linger in the company you have. They have tables and sofa spaces and an excellent wine and whisky list. A glass of Veuve Cliquot is for Rs 900 and a glass of a good Reisling will set you back 600-700.

The only failing is it's proximity to the restrooms, but because people walk past these tables to for Spices and Mezzo Mezzo as well, waiting here is a feast for the people watchers.

Reflections, JW Marriott, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu, Mumbai 400049.
Telephone: +91-22 66933000

Rating **1/2
Recommendations: The bar snacks are satisfactory, but save your appetitie for Spices
Atmosphere: Contemporary, elegant and quiet
Service: efficient but not hovering over you
Decibel: Conversational
Price Range: Rs. 450-900 for a drink
Hours: 7pm to 12.30am. 
No reservations really necessary.
Child friendliness: people under 21 are not permitted at bars in India.

Mushroom Picking

Headline: Mushroom Picking
Intro: Mushrooms have become an interesting companion to meats and vegetables, breaking flavors, absorbing excesses and adding texture. They have found their way into most cuisines, from Chinese, French, Italian and even Indian. So go out, pick the perfect porcini and get cooking. Bon appetite!
Image:
By Raunaq Roy

Those were the best of times, those were the worst of times. Those were definitely simpler times when you could walk across to a grocer you had shopped from forever and ask for a bag of mushrooms. And you hoped you got more mushrooms than dirt. Mushrooms aren't just mushrooms anymore: You've got portobello, shiitake, crimini, oyster, and even more exotic varieties showing up in supermarkets. What you don't know is how fresh they are.

With button mushrooms, lighter is better. Not only do mushrooms darken as they bruise, they dark spots are a sign of aging as well.
Look for button mushrooms that are light in color, since the mushrooms darken when they get older. Try and pick and pack that is cleanish. Properly cultivated and picked mushrooms should not be dirty. The junction where the button meets the mushroom should ideally be closed or as close to closed as possible.

Choosing specialty mushrooms, such as oysters and porcini (cépes), works in the opposite way. These should be open where the cap meets the stem. But the colouring rule stands. The gills under the cap should be light in color, not dark brown or black.

Allow all your senses to be consumed as you buys your mushrooms, from sign, you move to touch and good mushrooms are firm without being dry. Meaty, not withered. Apart from bruising also avoid mushrooms that feel slimy in any way. And last but not least, smell them. You are going to actually eat it, so do not buy 'fertilizer' as an excuse for a foul smell. Mushrooms should have a pleasant earthy whiff.

There are plenty of edible mushrooms that are cultivated worldwide. There are some varieties that are difficult to cultivate, therefore, these end up being the most prized.

Table Mushroom/Agaricus Bisporus:
Agaricus Bisporus or the Table mushroom is one of the most common types of edible mushrooms that are used in various preparations. This type of mushroom is known locally in different ways such as the Table mushroom or the Button mushroom. The problem area of this mushroom can be seen when it is sliced and exposed to air. This causes the mushrooms to turn a shade of brown.

Shiitake/Lentinula Edodes:
Also known as the Fragrant mushroom, Black mushroom or even the Black Forest mushroom. Shiitake was basically grown in China since the ancient days. Today, this mushroom is cultivated in many areas of the world and is also exported. Shiitake mushrooms also have certain medicinal properties apart from being used in different cuisines. This mushroom is widely used in Chinese cuisine as well and has also found a prominent place in Western cuisine.

Porcini/Boletus Edulis:
The Porcini is also known as the Penny bun or Cep and is a highly prized variety of mushrooms. This mushroom is basically found in Europe and areas of North America. These particular types of mushroom also have a distinct aroma and are used in various types of soups. Many claim this mushroom tastes its best when raw! It is generally sold fresh or even dried and packaged.

Giant Puffball/Calvatia Gigantea:
These round or pear shaped mushrooms are white or slightly grey in color. They grow through Summer and Fall in woods, barren areas, lawns and fields across the globe. The name has been given because this mushroom can grow to a diameter of 70 cms and can even reach 150 cms in some cases! This variety of mushroom is best eaten when it’s relatively young.

Field Mushroom/Agaricus Campestris:
This variety of mushroom is available commonly and is found in fields and grassy areas. Owing to a short shelf life is not grown for commercial purposes. The Field mushroom is also known as the Meadow mushroom and is known for its very mild taste.

Morchella:
Morchella is an edible mushroom that is considered to be amongst the prized possessions by many cooks. They belong to the genus – Morels. These mushrooms particularly grow in the same spot even after many years. These can be mildly toxic and have been blamed for some health issues, so like the puffer fish, tread with care.

Monday, August 2, 2010

Pali Hill Cafe, Mumbai

Pali Hill Cafe
Rating **/5

Here I reserve the right the visit the restaurant when it's no longer the new kid on the block. If there was ever the curse of the plenty, it is here. The deli is glossed over but the charming Bandra village cottage feel that they have retained is a definite win! The tables outside could have had a little more character but over all in the decor department, we're doing alright. Adding to the decor is the swirl of suburban mumbai's swish set, including little bursts of stardust from Bollywood.

The food is quite nice but not winning any Michelin stars in a hurry. The part that seems to be failing the place is service.... Actually eagerness to get the next table seated is ruining several experiences. That said, when I went, they were patient with us and the young patron with us.

The coffee was passable, the belinni was too sweet but the bread was good. The cheese I ordered came with the bill! The restaurant does not seem to be able to handle it's almost famous status. This too shall pass, and when it does and no one is looking, what will they dish out. The proof of the pudding is in how the recipe stands the test of time.

Pali Hill Cafe
Rating **/5
Recommendations: Arugula salad, chicken burger
Atmosphere: Contemporary, elegant coffee shop, hip.
Service: all over the place
Decibel: Conversations, good music waft through the air
Price Range: Rs. 1200 for 2 people
Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
Make reservations at least a day before. Ask for a table inside, downstairs.
Child friendliness: at lunch time, in the evening, really not the place for kids.

Sunday, August 1, 2010

Sarabeth's, Amsterdam Avenue, New York City

Sarabeth's
Rating ***.5/5

The Upper West Side is a warmer place for it. Sarabeth's is everything you want in a round the corner breakfast place. And more. Even the temperature is managed to perfection. The staff is quick but don't rush you, gentle with young visitors and encouraging. The coffee is good - not astounding. The kind you expect in a homely place. The whole ambiance is like coming to Mama's kitchen. To have exotic coffee with sharp accents would be too much of a statement. The charm of Sarabeth's is that it has no rough edges. Just a smooth welcome.

Don't get me wrong, there is nothing mediocre about this place. The lemon ricotta pancakes are outstanding. It's the kind that begs for butter. The scrambled eggs are fluffy and the bread is excellent. They are most well known for their pancakes but I would like to suggest eggs Benedict for your next order.

Sarabeth's 3.5/5
423 Amsterdam avenue, new York city

Recommendations: fresh fruit or lemon ricotta pancakes, eggs Benedict
Atmosphere: Warm, comfortable, bustling but not rushed
Service: quick and polite
Decibel: Conversation buzzes around you pleasantly. Occasionally kids change the pitch
Price Range: $50 for 2 people
Hours:  
Reservations
Child friendliness: very, strollers need to be stored though.

Saturday, July 31, 2010

Fat Kong, Santacruz, Mumbai

Timely Takeout 
Rating 1.5/5


The food tastes like anything else. The curries are all there, they are what you expect from street chinese in Mumbai. The soups are watery, so skip your first course if you are ordering from FatKong and go straight into the mains. The curries have a semblance of differing flavours and the garlic stays on your breath long after you have brushed and gone to be. But if chinese takeout is what you want, it hits the spot. And fast.


The restaurant itself is mostly a kitchen in the garage of what is now a fancy building and red plastic chairs and basic tables are as kitsch as this place can go. The tables are set out on the curbside and so I would stop there to eat only if I had no where else to go. Ordering out is passable. Eating in, avoidable.


As a style secret: Taking mediocre Chinese food from takeout joints such as this and plating it in oriental laters along side a set table complete with flavoured tea and chopsticks does bring some sense of dignity to the meal. Alternatively, brown paper boxes with chopsticks and a nice wine make it simple and sophisticated for a night in. Just does because its cheap, it doesn't have to be tacky!


FatKong *.5/5
Raheja Classic, SV Road, Santacruz West, Mumbai 400054 


Recommendations: Chicken in black bean sauce, Egg haka noodles
Atmosphere: Curbside, street food
Service: quick
Decibel: Traffic, but otherwise youdo have elbow room
Price Range: Rs. 400 for 2 people
Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
No reservations
Child friendliness: Mosquitoes, traffic don't make it easy to have kids with you.