Mamagoto, khan market

It is their play with food, flavours and flirting with the palate that worked like magic for me. They have taken ingredients and brought them together in a delightful asian experience. The Mocktails start the meal well and the desserts offer a fitting end, but the hero - as it should be for all good kitchens - is the food.

 The Salads are crunchy with a wonderful sharpness and a full bodied after taste. The snow pea and green bean salad worked wonderfully to whet the appetite and not kill it. The soggy rice was, well soggy, but not at all like baby food. It has texture and a sweet and spicy flavour.

It isnt often that you sit down to eat and from the top to bottom, the kitchen serves up the soup like its meant to. At Mamagoto, I had no complaints. Well...the service is a bit crowded and it would be nice to be encouraged to linger. But the food had the flavour and the heat to seduce my taste buds at a price and ambiance that certainly seduced by wallet. 

Olive, bandra

IMG_0288.JPG
Olive Bar and Kitchen
Rating **1/2

I have always maintained that unlike a film review, a restaurant review is always subject to change. Especially with two aspects. The first obviously being change in the chef. The second shift has a huge effect on your experience is a change in manager/ management. Olive, in the swanky union park neighborhood has seen a revolving door of chefs. And while that is the worst thing for a kitchen, it is better for the management to keep trying out new people than to serve up some soup below par. They may have ended their problems with the Prodigal son Chef Manu Chandra.

The salads itself set the meal in the right mode. Deliciously flavored, fresh and simple. The green apple carpaccio with baby spinach and feta is light and airy, the signature Caesar's salad is also well built and the wine cured grapes with aragula and goat cheese is bold. The seasoning is just right, the staff is polite and open to suggestion. While their pizzas are good and the Tomato Pesto Timbale is interesting and flavorful, the humble char grills are the most popular entrees at Olive. The Portuguese style chicken grill and the mixed seafood are both easy to order. With your coffee you will get delicious chocolate coated orange peel which is a must try.

People watching is always interesting. Young ladies having drinks, Bollywood celebrities enjoying a meal with friends, fashion designers, models and other members of Mumbai's swish set are here. Sit at the bar for a while and then move to a window table for two or the ones against the wall for more. Based on the last two meals the rating might have been higher, but a good kitchen proves itself. And the proof is in the pudding.

Olive Bar and Kitchen
Pali Hill Tourist Hotel, 14 union Park, Khar West, Mumbai 400052
Tel: +91-22-26058228/9
email: olive@2die4.com
Website: www.olivebarandkitchen.com
Rating **1/2


Pricing: $$$
Recommendations: char grills, wine cured grape salad, lasagna
Atmosphere: Contemporary, hip, lounge feel
Service: polite and attentive, receptive
Decibel: Music loud over weekend, drowning off conversation a bit
Price Range: Rs. 3000 for 2 people (not including drinks)
Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
Make reservations
Child friendliness: at lunch time, in the evening, children are not welcome. It is a bar mostly.

Reflections Bar @ JW Marriott

Reflections, JW Marriott
Rating: **1/2

Points for just being at the JW Marriott. The hotel with the revolving door to some of the most famous faces in Mumbai. In fact if I am not mistaken, a Bollywood character actor recently tweeted about his meeting there implying that the best thing about conducting meetings at the JW is that he bumps into several industry friends. The reason I go on about this, is quite simple, Reflections is the perfect people watching space. And an additional point for utterly efficient and polite waiting and managerial staff. Shah Rukh Khan could be on the next table and I will be handled with as much fuss, interest and dignity as the over achiever on the next table.

Reflections isn't the swishest space at the JW. That would paradoxically be the cafe - BBC. Reflections is quiet. You can have a private meeting, actually have a conversation, and just linger in the company you have. They have tables and sofa spaces and an excellent wine and whisky list. A glass of Veuve Cliquot is for Rs 900 and a glass of a good Reisling will set you back 600-700.

The only failing is it's proximity to the restrooms, but because people walk past these tables to for Spices and Mezzo Mezzo as well, waiting here is a feast for the people watchers.

Reflections, JW Marriott, Juhu Tara Road, Juhu, Mumbai 400049.
Telephone: +91-22 66933000

Rating **1/2
Recommendations: The bar snacks are satisfactory, but save your appetitie for Spices
Atmosphere: Contemporary, elegant and quiet
Service: efficient but not hovering over you
Decibel: Conversational
Price Range: Rs. 450-900 for a drink
Hours: 7pm to 12.30am. 
No reservations really necessary.
Child friendliness: people under 21 are not permitted at bars in India.

Mushroom Picking

Headline: Mushroom Picking
Intro: Mushrooms have become an interesting companion to meats and vegetables, breaking flavors, absorbing excesses and adding texture. They have found their way into most cuisines, from Chinese, French, Italian and even Indian. So go out, pick the perfect porcini and get cooking. Bon appetite!
Image:
By Raunaq Roy

Those were the best of times, those were the worst of times. Those were definitely simpler times when you could walk across to a grocer you had shopped from forever and ask for a bag of mushrooms. And you hoped you got more mushrooms than dirt. Mushrooms aren't just mushrooms anymore: You've got portobello, shiitake, crimini, oyster, and even more exotic varieties showing up in supermarkets. What you don't know is how fresh they are.

With button mushrooms, lighter is better. Not only do mushrooms darken as they bruise, they dark spots are a sign of aging as well.
Look for button mushrooms that are light in color, since the mushrooms darken when they get older. Try and pick and pack that is cleanish. Properly cultivated and picked mushrooms should not be dirty. The junction where the button meets the mushroom should ideally be closed or as close to closed as possible.

Choosing specialty mushrooms, such as oysters and porcini (cépes), works in the opposite way. These should be open where the cap meets the stem. But the colouring rule stands. The gills under the cap should be light in color, not dark brown or black.

Allow all your senses to be consumed as you buys your mushrooms, from sign, you move to touch and good mushrooms are firm without being dry. Meaty, not withered. Apart from bruising also avoid mushrooms that feel slimy in any way. And last but not least, smell them. You are going to actually eat it, so do not buy 'fertilizer' as an excuse for a foul smell. Mushrooms should have a pleasant earthy whiff.

There are plenty of edible mushrooms that are cultivated worldwide. There are some varieties that are difficult to cultivate, therefore, these end up being the most prized.

Table Mushroom/Agaricus Bisporus:
Agaricus Bisporus or the Table mushroom is one of the most common types of edible mushrooms that are used in various preparations. This type of mushroom is known locally in different ways such as the Table mushroom or the Button mushroom. The problem area of this mushroom can be seen when it is sliced and exposed to air. This causes the mushrooms to turn a shade of brown.

Shiitake/Lentinula Edodes:
Also known as the Fragrant mushroom, Black mushroom or even the Black Forest mushroom. Shiitake was basically grown in China since the ancient days. Today, this mushroom is cultivated in many areas of the world and is also exported. Shiitake mushrooms also have certain medicinal properties apart from being used in different cuisines. This mushroom is widely used in Chinese cuisine as well and has also found a prominent place in Western cuisine.

Porcini/Boletus Edulis:
The Porcini is also known as the Penny bun or Cep and is a highly prized variety of mushrooms. This mushroom is basically found in Europe and areas of North America. These particular types of mushroom also have a distinct aroma and are used in various types of soups. Many claim this mushroom tastes its best when raw! It is generally sold fresh or even dried and packaged.

Giant Puffball/Calvatia Gigantea:
These round or pear shaped mushrooms are white or slightly grey in color. They grow through Summer and Fall in woods, barren areas, lawns and fields across the globe. The name has been given because this mushroom can grow to a diameter of 70 cms and can even reach 150 cms in some cases! This variety of mushroom is best eaten when it’s relatively young.

Field Mushroom/Agaricus Campestris:
This variety of mushroom is available commonly and is found in fields and grassy areas. Owing to a short shelf life is not grown for commercial purposes. The Field mushroom is also known as the Meadow mushroom and is known for its very mild taste.

Morchella:
Morchella is an edible mushroom that is considered to be amongst the prized possessions by many cooks. They belong to the genus – Morels. These mushrooms particularly grow in the same spot even after many years. These can be mildly toxic and have been blamed for some health issues, so like the puffer fish, tread with care.

Pali Hill Cafe, Mumbai

Pali Hill Cafe
Rating **/5

Here I reserve the right the visit the restaurant when it's no longer the new kid on the block. If there was ever the curse of the plenty, it is here. The deli is glossed over but the charming Bandra village cottage feel that they have retained is a definite win! The tables outside could have had a little more character but over all in the decor department, we're doing alright. Adding to the decor is the swirl of suburban mumbai's swish set, including little bursts of stardust from Bollywood.

The food is quite nice but not winning any Michelin stars in a hurry. The part that seems to be failing the place is service.... Actually eagerness to get the next table seated is ruining several experiences. That said, when I went, they were patient with us and the young patron with us.

The coffee was passable, the belinni was too sweet but the bread was good. The cheese I ordered came with the bill! The restaurant does not seem to be able to handle it's almost famous status. This too shall pass, and when it does and no one is looking, what will they dish out. The proof of the pudding is in how the recipe stands the test of time.

Pali Hill Cafe
Rating **/5
Recommendations: Arugula salad, chicken burger
Atmosphere: Contemporary, elegant coffee shop, hip.
Service: all over the place
Decibel: Conversations, good music waft through the air
Price Range: Rs. 1200 for 2 people
Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
Make reservations at least a day before. Ask for a table inside, downstairs.
Child friendliness: at lunch time, in the evening, really not the place for kids.

Sarabeth's, Amsterdam Avenue, New York City

Sarabeth's
Rating ***.5/5

The Upper West Side is a warmer place for it. Sarabeth's is everything you want in a round the corner breakfast place. And more. Even the temperature is managed to perfection. The staff is quick but don't rush you, gentle with young visitors and encouraging. The coffee is good - not astounding. The kind you expect in a homely place. The whole ambiance is like coming to Mama's kitchen. To have exotic coffee with sharp accents would be too much of a statement. The charm of Sarabeth's is that it has no rough edges. Just a smooth welcome.

Don't get me wrong, there is nothing mediocre about this place. The lemon ricotta pancakes are outstanding. It's the kind that begs for butter. The scrambled eggs are fluffy and the bread is excellent. They are most well known for their pancakes but I would like to suggest eggs Benedict for your next order.

Sarabeth's 3.5/5
423 Amsterdam avenue, new York city

Recommendations: fresh fruit or lemon ricotta pancakes, eggs Benedict
Atmosphere: Warm, comfortable, bustling but not rushed
Service: quick and polite
Decibel: Conversation buzzes around you pleasantly. Occasionally kids change the pitch
Price Range: $50 for 2 people
Hours:  
Reservations
Child friendliness: very, strollers need to be stored though.

Fat Kong, Santacruz, Mumbai

Timely Takeout 
Rating 1.5/5


The food tastes like anything else. The curries are all there, they are what you expect from street chinese in Mumbai. The soups are watery, so skip your first course if you are ordering from FatKong and go straight into the mains. The curries have a semblance of differing flavours and the garlic stays on your breath long after you have brushed and gone to be. But if chinese takeout is what you want, it hits the spot. And fast.


The restaurant itself is mostly a kitchen in the garage of what is now a fancy building and red plastic chairs and basic tables are as kitsch as this place can go. The tables are set out on the curbside and so I would stop there to eat only if I had no where else to go. Ordering out is passable. Eating in, avoidable.


As a style secret: Taking mediocre Chinese food from takeout joints such as this and plating it in oriental laters along side a set table complete with flavoured tea and chopsticks does bring some sense of dignity to the meal. Alternatively, brown paper boxes with chopsticks and a nice wine make it simple and sophisticated for a night in. Just does because its cheap, it doesn't have to be tacky!


FatKong *.5/5
Raheja Classic, SV Road, Santacruz West, Mumbai 400054 

Recommendations: Chicken in black bean sauce, Egg haka noodles

Atmosphere: Curbside, street food

Service: quick

Decibel: Traffic, but otherwise youdo have elbow room

Price Range: Rs. 400 for 2 people

Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
No reservations

Child friendliness: Mosquitoes, traffic don't make it easy to have kids with you.

Nobu, 57th street, NewYork City

Nobu

Rating ***/5

Has it become much too touristy for it's own good? It's still an excellent place for a steep drink. But the thing that struck us at Nobu on 57th was the disdainful disinterest of the hostess. She can make or break an evening. And it is with regret that we must fail her in that department. The food was served just right, well informed waiting staff and a hip ambiance met with some personality. That said, we would recommend Hakkasan (London) over Nobu in overall experience.

The Peruvian sashimi was worth mention. The mixologists are talented. In short it has the makings of a perfect formula, but it lacks soul. Enough said

Nobu: ***/5

40 west, 57 street, manhattan, New York

Decibel: Moderately loud music, conversation possible but intimate

Price Range: $ 200 for 2 people

Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am.

Book a table for dinner

Child friendliness: Children not permitted downstairs but they aren't thrilled to have young guests at all.

Pritam Da Dhaba, Dadar Mumbai

Pritam Da Dhaba
Rating *

It used to be quite the speciality restaurant, upto 15-20 years back. But now it has lost its edge. It continues to cater to a certain clientele, but the flavour of the food has gone South as has its sheen and experience. The Salted Lassi was so sour that we had to return it. They offered to make it with fresh curd - which leads to the question - why didn't they use fresh yoghurt to begin with?

The gravies had the same tomato base flavour and was altogether too rich for you to enjoy the food. My father-in-law, an experienced restaurateur of almost half a century, often says this about too much cream in the food, "It doesn't work for the customer, as they are more health conscious and it masks the inherent sharpness of flavour. It doesn't work for me as it is so heavy, no one orders more than one dish." Pritam Da Dhaba should take a page out of his book for the methi matar and the dal. Tasted ok, but richness personified!

The gulab jamun was hard and cold and that was just the icing on the cake gone bad! and the bar was hidden and poky and not inviting at all.

Pritab Da Dhaba */5
32 Dharmputra Pritam, East Dadar, Mumbai, Maharashtra 400014. 

Recommendations: Dahi Wada, Dal

Atmosphere: Family restaurant, old school

Service: inefficient, lax, uninspired

Decibel: conversational with elevator music

Price Range: Rs. 800 for 2 people

Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
Book a table for lunch and dinner, expect to wait. No reservations at the bar

Child friendliness: They are used to little foodies running around.

Banyan Tree, Fort, Mumbai

The Banyan Tree, Fort
Rating **1/2
It is a lovely feeling to drink coffee, surf on your iPad (yes I show off here) and know you are surrouned by lovely books, progressive art, and creative knick-knacks you can buy. The Banyan Tree at BMB Art Gallery is lovely. Nestled in a lovely lane surrounded by some of the city's oldest schools (Cathedral and John Conan Middle School and JB Petit for girls) the location is a dead ringer. The fresh fruit is inspired and piques your interest and the brownies and muffins make you feel right at home.

Its the entrees that surprise you. It has a satisfying menu that blends coffee house eats with the feel of a deli.  The Spinach Burger was surprising - I don't normally like vegetarian burgers - The Thai Curry was not bad and the muffins are excellent. they also get their coffee bang on - which is most important in a coffee house.

The Banyan Tree Cafe **1/2
Gallery BMB, Fort, Mumbai 400001

Recommendations: Spinach burger, Coffee

Atmosphere: Arty, Contemporary

Service: Efficient

Decibel: Quiet, with random music from the '90s (?)

Price Range: Rs. 1,000 for 2 people

Hours: all day long 
No reservations

Child friendliness: It's more adult, but they would welcome young visitors.

Indigo, Colaba, Mumbai

The Chef's Kitchen
The 100 Word review is not easy. And to say I liked the first menu the most is unfair as its now tinged with the colour of wonderful memories. But booking a table will get you personalised menus. The staff is extraordinarily polite and not at all elitist. It is an upscale, expensive fine dining restaurant with the owner's heart firmly in his "pet project". I have seen Rahul Akerkar on busy nights come out of the kitchen and help clear up.

New, hip bars that have opened up in the area after Indigo made Colaba the chicest dining district. And they have only served to improve the experience at Indogo. The press of people has dropped to a steady stream of the city's swish set. The music is definitely lounge and conversation is a pleasure.

The decor is interesting with colour blocking and culinary art works, but doesn't take away nor does it pretend of add to the dining experience. The food is King, country and content.

Indigo: ****/5
Malviya Road, Colaba, Mumbai

Recommendations: Blackened Chicken and Lobster Risotto

Atmosphere: Hip, Corporate

Service: Efficient, quiet, but not invible

Decibel:lounge, allowing for coversation

Price Range: Rs. 2,000 for 2 people

Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
Book a table for dinner, no reservations at the bar

Child friendliness: Children not permitted except on Sunday.

Zenzi, Bandra West, Mumbai

Rating: **/5

The Zany Wateringhole

The outer edge of Bandra’s yuppie culture, Zenzi is the watering hole for people looking to getaway from the swish and the serious. Production crew, models, artists, photographers and media own the long bar on the outside and the tall tables that line the verandah. Boheme is an unspoken given here and the music, while occasionally loud, especially when the band is new is over zealous, can often be loud enough for you to talk over and buzzing enough to get into the groove thang!

The Bar snacks menu is limited but the have the New York style China Box which is quite popular. Rumor has that it was created by friends who would stay till late and grab some noodles and gravy in the wee hours. They have a mushroom starter that deserves some mention but for the life of me I cannot recall what it is. And the amnesia is itself a testimony to the bar.

But to be honest, the barkeep and his crew are not dazzling in their display nor is the bar limitless. But  the sultry outside complete with amateur photographic art for sale on the walls draws you in for a casual drink. Its easy to see this bar become your regular watering hole. Somehow the inside bar and dining experience feels like a whole different place and experience. And what passes for busy and buzzing outside seems like no elbow room on the inside. The food passes muster but isn’t anything to write home about but Zenzi has a clean-ish restroom that make an evening of beer-guzzling bearable.

Somehow the drinks that are served best here are the ones that come out of a bottle – entirely. The wine is chilled, the beer is iced and the whiskey should be on the rocks. The Bloody Mary lacks punch and the Caipiroska is too muddled and the waiting staff can be too familiar.

Still as you leave, with you head buzzing pleasantly, you know you will come back. For a beer, an evening of debauchery or for the New York-style China Box.

Zenzi **/5

RK Patkar Marg, Khar West, Mumbai 400050. Tel: 022 6643 0670

Recommendations: China Box and Beer.

Atmosphere: Relaxed, creative

Service: Prompt but over friendly

Decibel: Moderately loud music, louder conversations

Price Range: Rs. 1,000 for 2 people

Hours: 12.30pm to 3pm and 7pm to 12.30am. 
Book a table for dinner, no reservations at the bar

Child friendliness: Children not permitted in the evening.

Places in the neighbourhood: